With this post, we will cover everything you need to know about the Bearded Dragon Diet. It includes food sizes, a list of safe foods to feed your bearded dragon, and foods that must be avoided.
Note: Foods that are questionable and that have not yet been proven to be 100% safe, will not be added to this list!
What Do Bearded Dragons Eat?
Bearded dragons are omnivorous; this means that they eat plants and meat. (Meat is in insect form.) They need protein which comes in 2 Types; Plant protein and animal protein (insects). As babies and juveniles are growing dragons, they will need more animal protein than plant protein. Adults are fully grown and thus need more plant than meat protein. To sum it up, plant protein is equally important and MUST BE given daily to Adults! A good ratio would be 70% plant protein vs. 30% animal protein (insects) for an adult beardie.
Fruits are ONLY “treats” as they contain too much sugar which can be bad for bearded dragons if consumed daily. Once a week for adults is more than enough. Never give fruits to a sick dragon.
What to Feed a Baby/Juvenile Bearded Dragon?
They have the same diet as adult bearded dragons, the only difference being that the ratio of food and food types differ. Baby bearded dragons eat basically just insects every day, with a leaf or two a day. Juveniles need 20% plants and 80% insects, meaning they have their insects every day and a veggie and greens meal every fourth day. One year and older, it is reversed, with veggies and greens every day and insects every second to the third day, but plants come first and are topped off with insects for dessert. It is NOT recommended to give fruits to babies as it contains too much sugar. Fruits are treats and should only be given occasionally after 8 months.
Bearded Dragon Feeding Schedule
0 – 2 Months – Live food should be given 7 days a week, three times a day. Veggies should be offered 1 – 2 times a week. With a single green leaf every fourth day. No fruits.
3 – 6 Months – Live foods should be given 7 days a week, twice a day. Veggies and greens, 2 – 3 times a week. No fruits.
6 – 8 Months – Live food should be given 6 days a week, once a day. Veggies and greens, 3 – 4 times a week. No fruits.
8 – 12 Months – Live food should be given 5 days a week, once a day. Veggies and greens, 4-5 times a week. Fruit can be offered once a week as a treat in small quantities. (Once slice or one small fruit like a berry)
12 – 18 Months – Live food should be given 4 days a week, once a day. Veggies and greens, 5-6 times a week. Fruit can be offered once a week as a treat.
18 Months plus – Live food can be offered 2-3 times a week. Veggies and greens should be given 6-7 times a week. Fruit can be offered once a week as a treat.
NB: On the days they do not get insects they should be fed a full meal of veggies and greens. Do not leave them hungry.
Every Bearded Dragon is different and has needs of his/her own. The estimates above are for healthy dragons and NOT those who need special care. Underweight, sick, or gravid dragons will need more live food than normal ones. Some bearded dragons do not favor veggies or greens and will thus need a little more live food to sustain them. If you have a beardie that is sick or underweight it is always best to consult with your Vet. He/she will work out a feeding plan that will help your dragon to get in top health again.
PLEASE NOTE: Do not feed an extremely skinny and malnourished bearded dragon a large amount of any type of food unless instructed to do so by a professional veterinarian as it will cause liver failure. Bearded dragons that are malnourished should be “Pre-fed” before regular feeding starts. Many products on the market that is designed for this like “Reptile critical care” and so forth. Please consult with your vet to get a product that is suitable.
Bearded Dragon Food Sizes and Feeding
Do not give a bearded dragon food that is too large, as they can choke on it or it can cause blockages or paralyzes. Bearded dragon food should be no larger than the space between the eyes.
Appropriately sized crickets or roaches must be offered to baby and juvenile dragons two to three times per day. Use 5-10 minutes per feeding time and offer the bearded dragon as many as he/she can eat at that time. They can easily eat about 20-40 small crickets a day.
Keep an eye out if your bearded dragon is a greedy and fast eater. Feed them one or so at a time as they can choke if they eat too fast and do not chew properly.
Offer juvenile beardies vegetables in a wide, but flat container. Vegetables and greens must be chopped up in small pieces because if not they may end up dragging the veggies around, this can be funny to us, but frustrating to them. Again, do not feed juveniles fruits as it contains too much sugar.
Gut Loading Your Live Feeders
Live food is only beneficial if the prey itself is nutritional to the animal eating it. Remember, what the crickets, roaches, and worms eat will also be what your bearded dragon eats. your live foods should be fed (gut-loaded) before you feed them to your beardie. Make sure that you feed your insects, worms, and roaches safe, nutritious foods from the list of foods that your bearded dragon can eat as well. In addition, there are many gut-load products available on the market.
Gut loading has additional benefits. Some of my bearded dragons do not like eating certain greens or veggies, by gut-loading the live feeders 3 hours prior to feeding, my bearded dragons still get nutrition from the feeders.
Take Note: Bearded dragons should always eat fresh veggies and greens on a daily basis. This option alone will not replace nutrition but only add to it. If your dragon refuses to eat a certain type of green or veggie, other options should be offered.
Below is a list of foods that are safe to feed your bearded dragon. Foods that are unknown or debatable were not added, because I believe you should not take the chance of offering them something that you are not certain can harm them. Always try to offer variety instead of feeding only one type of insect, green or veggie.
Bearded Dragon Food – Live Feeders (Insects)
Dubia Roaches (Staple Feeder)
- 3 Times a Week for adults /every day for juveniles.
- Gut load at least 3 hours prior to feeding. If they are too big, you can cut them into smaller pieces if you have the stomach for it.
- Excellent staple feeder and the most common staple protein for bearded dragons. High in protein, and low in fat. Recommended to start your own colony of roaches to cut costs. (Keep in mind, they are illegal in some states/countries)
Silkworms (Staple Feeder)
- 3 times a week for adults/5 days a week for juveniles.
- Gut load prior to feeding.
- Contains an enzyme called Serrapeptase. It helps to make calcium absorption more efficient. Also helps to reduce inflammation. A soft body makes it easy to digest. Excellent staple diet! They are also available as canned food, making it super easy for those who love to spoil their beardie with a special treat.
Horn Worms (Staple Feeder)
- 3 times a week for adults/5 days a week for juveniles. (Roaches on other 2 days)
- Gut load prior to feeding.
- A great protein source that is good for hydration. Have calcium and good fat and protein ratio. Bright color is also a bonus for those picky eaters. The perfect feeder for your beardie!
Crickets (Staple Feeder)
- Staple protein, if no other options are available.
- Gut load at least 2-3 hours prior to feeding.
- Crickets are messy, smelly, noisy, carry parasites often, and MUST BE properly gut-loaded prior to feeding. If this is your choice of staple feeder, be sure to buy from suppliers with a good reputation to avoid parasites. In addition, take your beardie to the vet every 6 months with a stool sample to test for parasites.
Super Worms
- Occasionally for adult dragons.
- Gut load at least 3 hours prior to feeding.
- High in phosphorus and fat.
Phoenix Worms
- Only feed Occasionally
- Gut load prior to feeding.
- Very nutritional mainly for juveniles.
Butter Worms
- Only feed Occasionally
- Gut load prior to feeding.
- High in fat and calcium.
Wax Worms
- Feed Rarely
- Gut load at least 3 hours prior to feeding.
- High in phosphorus and fat with little nutritional value.
Meal Worms
- Feed Rarely
- Gut load at least 3 hours prior to feeding. Dust with calcium.
- Low in calcium, high in fat and phosphorus. Hard chitin shell that is difficult to digest.
Consistent high levels of the following will cause long-term health problems for your bearded dragon. Foods with these should only be fed occasionally!
Vitamin A and D3 – Bearded dragons can easily overdose on these vitamins. UVB lights also provide Vit D3 and thus it is important not to give too much calcium and multivitamins that contain D3. If bearded dragons consume too much Vitamin A, their body, eyes, and throats will swell and result in being lethargic.
Oxalic Acid – It binds with calcium to form “calcium oxalate” which is insoluble and stops it from being absorbed properly.
Phosphorus – It will mess up your bearded dragon’s ability to properly absorb calcium.
Goitrogens – Inhibits the intake of Iodine, causes problems with the thyroid gland, and is the major cause of swelling.
Citric Acid – Not good for a bearded dragon’s digestive system. Remember, it can also be found in broccoli, carrots, tomatoes, and beans, hence, never a good idea to feed these on a regular basis.
Bearded Dragon Food – Vegetables and Greens
Acorn Squash
- Staple veggie
- Discard the rinds. Finely chop or shred the core.
- Good source of fiber.
Butternut Squash
- Staple veggie
- Discard the peel and core. Finely shred or shop.
- High in fiber.
Collard Greens
- Daily – Staple green.
- Cut into smaller pieces. Finely shred or chop the stems.
- High in calcium.
Dandelion Greens
- Staple green
- Rinse and cut into smaller pieces. Preferably discard
- Flowers can be fed as treats.
- Excellent staple diet that is high in Calcium. Be cautious about feeding wild greens, they may contain pesticides!
Endive/Escarole/Chicory greens
- Daily – Staple green.
- Rinse and cut into smaller pieces. Finely chop or discard the stems.
- Good staple diet, especially when mixed with other greens. High in Calcium.
Mustard Greens
- Daily – Staple green.
- Rinse and cut into smaller pieces. Finely shred or chop stems.
- Good choice for a staple diet. High in calcium.
Rocket
- Daily – Staple green
- Rinse and chop into smaller pieces.
- High in Calcium
Spaghetti Squash
- Daily – staple veggie
- Peel, core, and finely chop.
- High in calcium and fiber.
Turnip Greens (leaf)
- Daily
- Rinse and cut into smaller pieces or strips. Preferably discard stems.
- High in Calcium, Vitamin C, and Vitamin A.
Bell Peppers
- Occasionally
- Discard the core, rinse, and chop finely.
- Great color enhancer, and also has great taste.
Bok Choy
- Occasionally
- Cut green portions into smaller pieces. Preferably discard the white portion.
- High in Vitamin C, A, and Goitrogens.
Carrots
- Occasionally
- Discard the peels. Finely chopped or shredded.
- Carrots contain a lot of Vitamin A which can cause vitamin A toxicity!
Celery (stalk and leaves)
- Occasionally
- Very Finely chopped.
- Rich in fiber.
Coriander
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped
- High in Vitamin A
Green beans
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped
- High in calcium
Kale
- Occasionally
- Cut into smaller pieces. Finely chop the stems.
- High in Goitrogens – Not recommended by some, while others still deem it to be safe enough. Personally, I DO NOT feed it to my dragons.
Kohlrabi (Leaves Only)
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped
- High in Oxalates
Okra
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped
- Good source of fiber.
Parsnip
- Occasionally
- Peel and shred
- High in fiber
Snap Peas
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped.
- Contains moderate Oxalates.
Zucchini (Raw)
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped
- High phosphorus
Yellow Squash
- Occasionally
- Peeled and finely chopped
Watercress
- Occasionally
- Finely chopped
- High in Vitamins A and C
Cucumber
- Rarely
- Peel and cut up into bite-sized pieces. Remove seeds.
- Very little nutritional value for bearded dragons. Good for dehydrated bearded dragons.
Parsley
- Rarely
- Finely Chopped
- It only serves well for dehydrated bearded dragons. A small amount may also be sprinkled on top of other foods to add an attractive smell.
Sweet Potato
- Rarely
- Peel and finely chop or shred.
- High in Vitamin A and Oxalates.
Bearded Dragon Food – Fruits
Prickly Pear
- Once a week
- Finely chopped or shredded.
- High in Calcium. Good staple.
Papaya
- Once a week
- Peel, remove seeds and finely chop or crush.
- Great source of fiber and is also high in calcium and Vitamin C. Good staple fruit.
Apples
- Occasional
- Peel, remove seeds, and chop or shred finely.
Apricot
- Occasionally
- Peel, remove the pit and chop finely.
- High in Vitamin A
Blackberries
- Occasionally
- Rinse and chop in half.
- High in fiber and calcium. Should only be offered as a treat due to the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio. Also high in oxalic acid.
Blueberries
- Occasionally
- Rinse and cut in half.
- Contains Moderate Oxalates.
Cherries
- Only feed Occasionally
- Rinse, cut in half, and remove the pit.
- Nice treat.
Cranberries
- Only feed Occasionally
- Rinse and cut into Pieces.
- High in fiber, calcium, and phosphorus.
Figs
- Only feed Occasionally
- Peel, chop finely
- High in calcium and fiber with moderate Oxalates. Only give to adult dragons.
Grapes
- Only feed Occasional
- Rinse, cut in half, and remove seeds.
- High in water and Oxalates. Only serves well as a treat.
Mango
- Only feed Occasional
- Discard the pit and peel. Finely chopped or crushed.
- High in Vitamin A
Pears
- Only feed Occasionally
- Peel, remove seeds and chop finely.
- High in Oxalates and fiber.
Peaches
- Only feed Occasionally
- Peel, remove the pit and chop finely.
- High Goitrogens.
Strawberries
- Only feed Occasionally
- Rinse, and remove the stems and tops. Cut into thin slices.
- High in phosphorus and oxalates.
Watermelon
- Only feed Occasionally
- Only feed the flesh, not the skin. Remove all seeds
- Little nutrition, but is high in water. Good for dehydrated bearded dragons.
Bananas
- Feed Rarely!
- Peel and chop finely
- Very high in phosphorus, and not good for calcium absorption. Try to avoid it completely!
Kiwi
- Feed Rarely
- Discard the peel and seeds. Finely chopped.
- High In Vitamin C and Oxalates.
Raspberries
- Feed Rarely
- Rinse and cut in half.
- High in Fibre.
Take Note:
Food should always be washed thoroughly to ensure that all possible pesticides and bacteria are removed!
Always remove any skin, peel, or seeds from any fruit or vegetable that you feed to your dragon.
Foods that Must NOT Be Fed to Your Bearded Dragon!
Here is a list of things that lack dietary value or are poisonous and harmful to your dragon and Should Not be fed:
- You should not feed any kind of meat or chicken
to your dragon. It can cause kidney damage because of the high protein.
- Do not offer any lightning (fireflies) or boxeder bugs because they are lethal.
- Fish – Some reptiles and turtles are able to eat fish but not bearded dragons. Fish is like a farm of bacteria and parasites so it is not a good choice as it is also poisonous to your bearded dragon.
- Processed Meats – There is very little for a dragon to gain from turkey, ham, chicken, beef, and any other meat that you can think of. (In a nutritional way) Meat is also very toxic to dragons. Do not forget that meat has been prepared with oils and preservatives and this is also toxic.
- Dried pet food – This is poisonous to them and will lead to dehydration and severe calcium deficiency.
- Avocado – Avocado is harmful and poisonous to bearded dragons.
- Pinky Mouse – Very high in fat, little nutrition. There are tons of other more nutritious foods to feed your dragon. Silkworms are the better option. It contains more calcium and is easier to digest.
- Spinach – Calcium binds with spinach and that is why it should be avoided because the bearded dragon cannot digest it.
- Lettuce and Iceberg Lettuce – (Only use if the bearded dragon is dehydrated). This is not so bad for bearded dragons but is just a waste of your bearded dragon’s digestive system because it is mostly water. No nutritional value can cause diarrhea.
- Eggplant – Unknown toxicity for reptiles
- Peas – Very high phosphorus-to-calcium ratio. Should be avoided at all times!
- Citrus fruits like Oranges have very high volumes of citric acid. Should be avoided at all times!
- Dairy products – Bearded dragons cannot properly digest dairy.
- Chemically treated foods – If at all possible, rather buy organic fruits, veggies, and greens. Better yet, plant your own if you are in the position to do so. Works out cheaper and much better for your bearded dragon’s health.
- Cabbage
- Corn
- Mushrooms
- Rhubarb
- Onions
- Plants Poisonous or not, a dragon will nibble on plants in its reach, it would be best if you check for any edibility before you put any plants in their cage or in their environment. Plants that are edible include hibiscus, ficus, geraniums, petunias, and violets. Be aware to feed them fresh plants from the store. The plants in the store have been threatened with systemic pesticides, meaning it is poisonous to any animal and will take 10-12 weeks to grow out. Washing it will not help a bit.
- Be cautious to feed wild greens, veggies, or live prey (Insects). It may contain pesticides or parasites!
What about Water for Bearded Dragons?
Bearded Dragons will seldom drink from their water bowls by themselves because they do not recognize still-standing water. In their natural habitat, they will get water from the moisture on the plants and rain. In captivity, bearded dragons can get dehydrated very quickly and it is vital to add additional moisture.
Mist your beardie at least twice a day with a spray bottle. In warmer conditions, it is advised to do it at least 4 times a day. Cooler days will obviously be less. Most bearded dragons will lick the water that runs down their mouths. When this happens, you can offer more water. Make sure that the water is not too cold, but rather room temperature.
Bathing is another way to get them hydrated. Most beardies love a bath and will generally swim and drink by themselves.
You can, furthermore, put them by their water bowl, with their front feet in the water, and then tap the water to make it move so they can see it. Sometimes they will lower their head and start drinking. you can also drip the water on their noses, which will also encourage them to drink. That said, always keep fresh water in their cages.
Bearded Dragon Diet – Facts and Tips
- To make greens last longer you should spray them with clean water. Spraying the greens will also help to keep your bearded dragon hydrated.
- Remove live and dead prey from the cage if not eaten. Crickets and worms that are left can irritate your beardie or even bite him/her when sleeping at night.
- A beardie’s appetite diminishes when they turn into adults, but young ones will always have a big appetite. They will nibble their toes and tail tips if they do not get enough food or when they have to share a cage with a mate. They do this for sustenance. Something is wrong if your young one does not eat. The problem is most likely that the temperature is not right. (The temperature must be at least 95 degrees and at most 100 degrees (F) so that they can digest their food.) If they have a cage mate bigger than them, they can be intimidated. It can also be because they ate something that caused impaction. Seek help from a specialized reptile vet if his/her appetite does not improve within 3 days! There will be days when bearded dragons will not eat, especially adults. This can be caused by various factors like shedding, going into brumation, egg laying, and so forth. In addition, if they had a big meal they will most likely not eat much the following day. However, if the lack of appetite goes along with other symptoms, it would be wise to seek advice from your vet.
- There are those bearded dragons that will take a lifetime to learn how to eat their veggies. Always be persistent and set up a feeding schedule. During the morning and early afternoon only offer greens and vegetables. Keep their proteins for the afternoon. Normally beardies will get hungry in the mornings and start eating their greens.
- Your bearded dragon should never be fed if his/her body temperature is too low. Always make sure that they bask for at least an hour before eating. In addition, they should also bask for at least 2-3 hours after a meal to help them digest their food properly. In some instances, beardies will go into their hides on the cool side of the cage after eating. If this happens, it is best to remove the hide for an hour after feeding to expose them to the much-needed heat for digestion. Never feed your dragon(s) close to bedtime, they will not have enough heat to digest the food when sleeping. Preferably no later than 3 pm in the afternoon.
- Insects should be kept in a clean, sterile container with enough water and nutrient-rich food. Sponges can be soaked in water and offered in small dishes. However, water gel works better and it is more hygienic. Live insects should always be gut loaded before it is offered to your beardie, this will ensure that your dragon gets nutrients from the Insects as well.
- When a bearded dragon is pregnant, you will have to provide more protein and more supplements. When a dragon is developing eggs her body processes more nutrients than normal. Imagine the toll the mother-bearded dragon takes with 15 to 30 eggs developing in her. In addition, she should eat more calcium-rich greens and don’t forget to dust her food with calcium at least every third day. After egg-laying, their bodies are starved of calcium, a good idea to keep up with the special diet for at least 2 weeks after laying eggs.
- I personally do not recommend dry pellets. The nutritional value does not compare to fresh greens, veggies, and fruits. In addition, your bearded dragon can become impacted if he/she consumes too many dry pellets. Leave a bowl of fresh greens, veggies, or fruits for them to snack on during the day as this is a better way of caring for your bearded dragon.
